Leading Edge Access Systems, Inc. - Electric Gate & Automatic Gate Installation's

Electric Gate Installation Guide

Installing a electric gate is not difficult, but it certainly helps to understand the details in order to select and understand hows we will install your gate without any problems. Here we offer details and diagrams explaining the more intricate side of gate layout, ordering, and installations. We recommend that you print this information for reference. If you do not find the answers here or on the FAQs page, please call us today at 1-302-892-2575.

Laying Out Your Electric Gate

   The Pocket
   Squareness
   In-swing / Out-swing
   Handing
   Swinging vs. Sliding Gate
Single Swing Gate vs. Bi-Parting Pair

Vehicle Detectors

Buried Detectors
   Exit Probe for free-exit uses
   Visible Detectors

Solutions for Masonry Pillars or Columns

Laying Out Your Electric Gate

Basic principles of gate planning and installation include the POCKET, i.e. the gate's distance from the turn into your driveway, SQUARENESS, i.e. the gate's angle to the drive path, IN-SWING/OUT-SWING, and HANDING, i.e. which side of the gate has the hinges.

1. THE POCKET

It is most desirable to have a small "pocket" in front of your gate. If the gate must be right up against your road, a wider opening should be considered, if possible.


BEST CASE: Allows you to pull off road while you wait for gate to open.	WORST CASE: Prevents you from pulling off road as you wait for the gate. Prevents larger vehicles from making the turn in.	IMPROVED CASE: Doesn't allow a pocket, but allows larger vehicles (a moving van, etc.) to make the turn into the drive.

2. SQUARENESS

Since automatic gates open only slightly more than 90 degrees, it is important to make the gate perpendicular to your drive path.

Curved driveways demand extra care in layout. No one wants their gate hit by a vehicle.

3. IN-SWING / OUT-SWING

The most desirable configuration for a swinging gate is to swing inward. However, certain driveway conditions can make it necessary to swing a gate outward. In the first case below, an in-swinging gate opens into the drive space.

PROBLEM (Left):
when open, in-swinging gate protrudes into drive space.

SOLUTION (Right): change gate to out-swinging gate.

Another condition that may force you swing your gate outward is an upward sloping driveway.

PROBLEM (Left):
when in-swinging gate opens, it hits the ground. You can hang gate higher on the post, but more than 6" - 8" above grade looks bad.

SOLUTION (Right): install gate as out-swing. Has plenty of clearance.

Depending on whether the gate swings in or out, the gate operator you choose will need to be configured accordingly.

A linear gate operator can be set up as "Pull to Open" (drawing A) or "Push to Open" (drawing B). The gate swings in or out, while the operator remains inside the gate.

An articulated arm gate operator can be set up to open inward (drawing C) or or to open outward (drawing D) but to open outward, the operator must go outside the gate.

Note: Does not work with gates and gate openers.

4. HANDING YOUR GATE

Imagine standing outside your gate, then ask yourself, are the hinges on the right or left? See the four examples here.

5. SWINGING vs. SLIDING GATE

A swinging gate is the first choice if possible. A swinging gate is generally less expensive, better looking and safer than a sliding gate. However, if you have one of the following conditions, you may want to consider a sliding gate:

Heavy snows that prevent the gate from swinging freely (note: a swinger can be hung up to 12 inches off the ground to overcome this).
An uphill driveway that prevents the gate from swinging inward. Typically, swinging gates swing inward to the property, however selected gate openers can be configured to push the gate open to the downhill side. See In-swing / Out-swing above.

For more information about sliding gates, simply contact us for more info.

6. SINGLE SWING vs. BI-PARTING PAIR

If driveway is 14 feet wide or less . . . A single swing gate is most economical.

If driveway is over 14 feet wide . . . A bi-parting pair (like French doors) is the answer. (Bi-parting gates need two gate openers configured as a Master/Slave.)

Vehicle Detectors

1. BURIED DETECTORS

These detectors can be buried in the road or driveway to sense the presence of metal, usually a vehicle, above them. They are designed to send a signal to a gate operator. The most common use of these devices is to keep a gate from closing if the gate-opening is obstructed (Hold-Open or Auto-Reversing) or to signal a gate to open when someone is exiting (Free or Automatic-Exit)

There are two basic kinds of buried vehicle detectors available. The inductive loop (Loop Detector) is the most versatile, being used for both Auto-Reversing and Free-Exit applications. It is a continuous loop of wire wrapped concentrically in approximately a 4 foot by 8 foot shape and buried in the roadway pavement or dirt (Fig. 1).

Fig. 1

2. EXIT PROBE FOR FREE-EXIT

The second type is the magnetometer (Exit Probe) which is only used in a Free-Exit situation. Never use a magnetometer as a hold-open or auto-reverse device. The advantage to using the magnetometer in a free-exit situation is that it can be buried along- side rather than in the center the road (Fig. 2).

Fig. 2

3. VISIBLE DETECTORS

This is commonly called a Photo-Eye. These are easier than ever to install because most brands now use a reflector so you do not have to run wire across the road or driveway. Photo-Eyes do not offer coverage as complete as the Loop-Detectors but they do offer one advantage; they sense anything, even a nonmetal object, that breaks their beam. This includes people, pets, etc. A Loop Detector only “sees” metal. It is our recommendation - and that of all our manufacturers - that every gate system be equipped with Loop Detectors and/ or Photo-Eyes. This may seem like a burden at the time of purchase but with personal liability issues and the level of litigation being what they are today, it is really an investment both monetarily and in peace of mind. If you have any type of public use, including casual visitors, regular visitors or tenants, we stress the need for this type of equipment (Fig. 3 and Fig.3a).

Fig. 3 (Slider)

Fig. 3a (Swinger)

photo eye on swinger

Solutions for Masonry Pilasters and Columns

When your entry plan includes masonry to set the gate post first and build the pilaster around it. Hanging the gate and bolting on the Gate Operator are done last for a nice finish.

The gate has a pivot point located 13" back and 6" behind the hinges. This creates a triangle giving the actuator arm more leverage to swing the gate without straining. The gate is gear driven with a 12-vdc motor; many people mistake it for a hydraulic gate operator. The difference is gates are steel gear driven and have adjustable limit switches, while hydraulic operators rely on positive stops and are also prone to leak hydraulic fluid.

If your gate must hang from the center line of a masonry pilaster, consider using an articulated arm gate operator like the one shown below.

It is still preferable to use our hinge-post even with a strong masonry pilaster. Most of our actuators mount to the hinge post, and the pilaster will interfere with the linear type operators unless installed as shown in the diagrams below (fig 4a, fig 4b).

For instance there will be a row of dimples punched in the hinge post to show where the bottom of the gate will be. When setting the post you can raise or lower the dimples to accommodate local terrain.

Gate and Masonry Pillar

Fig. 4a (linear actuator placement option)

Pilaster 1

Fig. 4b (linear actuator placement option)
Pilaster 2

If you absolutely must hang your gate(s) on the center line of the pilasters, we recommend using an articulated-arm style of operator.